GDFloorsMN: Helpful Hints for your Design

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GDFLOORSMN HELPFUL HINTS

Carpet

1. Carpet seams will show and be apparent. This is not a defect in the carpet but a limitation of the product. Seams within industry standard are acceptable.

2. Carpet may mat down in heavy traffic areas (halls, stairs, and walkways). Frequent vacuuming can slow down this matting process somewhat.

3. Exposure to direct sunlight will cause spotting and/or fading of the carpet. The company will not be responsible for fading in any areas.

4. Samples displayed are representatives of a style of carpet. Color, texture, and shade of the carpet installed may vary from the sample.

5. Shade and color will vary within each production run of a manufactured carpet and may also vary as a result of use, care, cleaning, and age. Therefore, on any replaced or repaired carpet, the company will not be responsible for any shade or color mismatch, discontinued colors, or carpet patterns.

6. Cut pile carpet is characterized by differences in light reflections causing shadowing or shading. This shadowing or shading occurs at the side of cut ends. When seams occur between a hall and a bedroom or where on room has been quarter turned to the other room this shadowing effect may occur. Quarter turning, which causes this shadowing and shading, is not a manufacturing or installation defect, but an industry wide practice.

If you will follow the simple procedures below, you can keep your carpet at the appearance level you expect.

1. Regular vacumming:

(The basic key in removing soil from the pile.) Hallways, family rooms, and stairs obviously need more frequent vacuuming, as these areas tend to receive the most traffic. Use a vacuum cleaner that has a “beater-bar”, this loosens soil and stimulates the pile. A vacuum which employs only “suction” does not clean as thoroughly or enhance your carpet appearance. In most homes, vacuuming once or twice a week should be enough.

2. Entrance Mats:

(Control the spread of soil where it begins.) If you place walk-off mats at the entrance areas of your home and keep them clean, you will control the soil at that point, thereby not bringing it through the house.

3. Liquid Spills:

(Attend to these quickly before they become stains.) With some exception of course, if you know what has been spilled on your carpet, and you act quickly to remove it, it won’t have a chance to become a “stain”. (See stain Cleaning Methods Chart for carpets other than “Stainmaster”, Anso, and Wear-Dated.) Always blot a spill (working from the edge to the center). Never rub; this just spreads the liquid to other areas. Use a clean (white if possible) absorbent cloth. It is also important to remember that NO CARPET IS STAIN PROOF!

4. Cleaning:

(If you have been diligent with steps 1, 2, and 3 this step should be very infrequent.) When it is time to clean, there are basically three methods available: 1. Dry compound, 2. Shampoo, 3. Steam. If you are going to do it yourself, the safest method is 1 (a dry compound). Many local retailers can provide you with the compound and equipment. Steps 2 and 3 are best left to the professionals; consult your local phone directory.

WARNING: Household chemicals may “spot” your carpet

Many modern day household chemicals serve to improve our lives. However, they may also cause mysterious spots when they come in contact with carpet or other dyed fabrics. Depending on humidity and temperature conditions, these discolorations may not appear until several days or weeks after the carpet was exposed to the chemical. The only way to protect carpet is to take special precautions to prevent any contact with these chemicals. Here are some of the common culprits:

*Bleaches

Chlorine bleaches; mildew killers and swimming pool chemicals (which can be

Tracked into the house by unknowing swimmers) will cause yellow spots.

*Acne Medications

Most acne medicines and some skin products for humans and pets contain benzoyl

Peroxide, which is a strong bleaching agent particularly in the presence of high

Humidity or moisture. Hand or facial residue can be unknowingly wiped onto the

Carpet. It is recommended that a strong soap be used by the acne medicine user to

Make certain that no residue is left on the hands or face.

*Household Cleaners

Tile, toilet bowl, drain and oven cleaners contain strong acids or alkalis, which can

Weaken the carpet fiber and cause color “bleeding”. Exercise caution when using

These cleaners around carpeted areas.

*DMSO

Dimetnysulfoxide, which is commonly used for pain relief in medicines for arthritis,

Back problems, athletic injuries, and muscular aches can cause rapid loss of color on

Carpet due to its solvent action.

*Insecticides and Pesticides

Products most often involved contain Malathion, Diazinon, Dursban, Vapona, and

Include some pet shampoos and flea and tick collars. We strongly recommend only a

Qualified Pest Control Operator do any indoor use of pesticides.

*Plant Foods

Liquid plant food spills or leakage from flowerpots can cause discolored spots. These

Typically start at the carpet backing and progress to the carpet surface, sometimes

Not apparent for months.

*Tip: READ THE WARNING LABELS on all household products before use since many

Contain chemicals harmful to carpet and other fabrics.

“ Stainmaster, Anso, and Weardated”

STAIN METHOD STAIN METHOD

Asphalt 4 Ink 1

Beer 2 Iodine 1

Beet Juice 1 Kool-Aid 1

Blood 2 Latex Paint 1

Candy 2 Lipstick 4

Cat Vomit 3 Mayonaise 2

Cherry Cola 1 Medicine 1

Chocolate 4 Milk 2

Coffee C/S 4 Mouth Wash 1

Cough Syrup 4 Mud 2

Cooking Oil/Soil 4 Mustard 1

Cough Syrup 1 Nail Polish 6

Cranberry Juice 2 Oil Paint 4

Crayon 4 Orange Cola 1

Dark Cola 1 Orange Juice 1

Dirty Motor Oil 4 Paint - Latex 2

Dog Vomit 3 Pet Feces 3

Egg 1 Prune Juice 2

Foundation/Make Up 2 Red clay soil 5

Furniture Stain 4 Red/White Wine 2

Gelatins 1 Rouge 4

Glue (White) 2 Rust 1

Grape Cola 1 Shoe Polish 4

Grape Juice 2 Slime 7

Grease 4 Tea 4

Hawaiian Punch 1 Vomit 2

Ice Cream 2 Water Colors 1

1. A. Water soak/ 1 minute/blot with paper towel/repeat until no stain is evident on towel. B. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stained area with fingers/blot/rinse in clear water to remove traces of detergent/blot dry. C. Add clear water/fold paper toweling and place over stained area with weight/check toweling every five minutes/repeat until blotter is stain free. (Note: this procedure may take as long as 24 hours) D. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

2. A. Blot excess/water soak, 1 minute/blot/apply 3% hydrogen peroxide to stained area + household ammonia/blot/rinse with clear water/blot. B. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stain with fingers/blot excess/rinse with clear water/blot dry. C. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

3. A. Scrape off excess/soften stain with alcohol or dry cleaning solvent/soak/blot/apply alcohol or dry cleaning solvent/blot immediately. B. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stain with fingers/blot excess/rinse with clear water/blot dry. C. Brush up pile with fingers, allow to dry.

4. A. Wet stain with alcohol or dry cleaning solvent/blot dry immediately / repeat two times. B. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stain with fingers/blot excess/rinse with clear water/blot dry. C. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

5. A. Vacuum excess. B. Water soak/ 1 minute with sponge or paper towel/repeat until no stain is evident on towel or sponge. C. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stained area with fingers/blot excess/rinse with clear water to remove traces of detergent/blot dry. D. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

6. A. Blot Excess. B. Apply nail polish remover/blot immediately. C. Repeat until no stain is evident on blotter. D. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

7. A. Scrape off excess. B. Soften stain with vinegar/water-blot. Repeat until no stain is evident on towel or sponge. C. Apply Spray N’ Wash and press into stained area with fingers/blot excess/ rinse with clear water to remove traces of detergent/blot dry. D. Brush up pile with fingers/allow to dry.

Successful stain removal requires the use of enough water and detergent to lift out the staining material, but do not attempt to do it all in one step. Repeated wetting and blotting works better and avoids wetting the carpet pad. For especially stubborn stains, consult a professional carpet cleaner.

We recommend cleaning by hot water extraction, preferably by a truck-mounted system. This is the only cleaning method that will keep the water a consistently hot enough temperature to dissolve the detergent and to offer enough suction to remove all excess detergent and water (i.e. Stanley Steamer, ServiceMaster, etc.)

*See next page for 1-800 #’s for your carpet’s nylon manufacturers.

“STAINMASTER, ANSO, AND WEARDATED”

These carpets offer not only superior “Stain Resistance”, but also another important advantage is a toll free number (see list below). The fiber producer can answer any questions on care and spills quickly and with certainty. Although all of these carpets have stain resistant features, it is important to understand that NO CARPET IS STAIN PROOF. Some known staining substances will stain all carpets: plant foods, iodine, toilet bowl cleaners, caustic chemicals, and medications or cleaning products that contain benzoyl peroxide.

FIBER PRODUCER TOLL FREE NUMBER

Anso 1-800-441-8185

Dupont 1-800-438-7668

Weardated 1-800-237-8289

3M 1-800-433-3296

Rx2

RESILIENT AND SHEET VINYL FLOORS

1. In all installations of tile and sheet vinyl floors where the edges meet you can and will see the seams/joints. This is not a defect in the flooring but a limitation of the product.

2. Shrinkage gaps shall not exceed 1/16” in width. Where dissimilar flooring materials abut, gap shall not exceed 1/8”

3. Ridges or depressions, cause by expansion or contraction of any sub-floor, shall not exceed 1/8”

4. Certain embossed patterns of resilient and sheet vinyl floors catch shadows from highs and lows manufactured into the pattern. This creates the illusion of waves in the floor when viewed against a windowed background. The appearance is altered in an occupied home with drapes that create shadows.

5. Shade and color will vary within each production run of a manufactured tile and may vary also as a result of use, care, cleaning, and age. As a result of any replaced or repaired resilient or sheet vinyl floors, Grand Design Interiors will not be responsible for any shade, texture/color mismatch, discontinued colors or patterns.

6. Samples displayed are representative of a style of resilient and sheet vinyl floors. Color, shade and texture of resilient and sheet vinyl floors installed may vary from the sample.

7. Asphalt compounds tracked in from driveways can permanently stain vinyl floors. This condition will turn the vinyl yellow PERMANENTLY, and Grand Design Interiors will not be responsible.

8. Pigments used in the manufacturing of resilient and sheet vinyl floors are made as fade resistant as possible. Strong sunlight will have a bleaching effect on the flooring materials. Grand Design Interiors shall not be responsible for this bleaching effect.

9. Stiletto, spike heels, treaded soled shoes that hold pebbles and grit as well as certain types of furniture will damage resilient flooring. Do not use rubber-backed rugs. The rubber backing reacts with the vinyl floor

RESILIENT AND SHEET VINYL FLOORS

· General maintenance guidelines (refer to manufacturer recommendations):

Proper care and protection will keep your resilient and sheet vinyl floor looking and performing its best. Just how much attention it needs will depend on the type of floor you buy and on how much daily traffic it receives.

Keeping you floor clean and presentable involves three basic phases of care: Preventative Care- to avoid dirt buildup and wear; damp mopping- for general routine care, and washing-to be sure the floor is really clean, Standard floors also require periodic Polishing and Stripping. Some products may build up and cause damage to the floor. It is recommended to use a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. (Ex. Armstrong for Armstrong floors.)

· Preventive Care:

Only a few minutes of daily care can go a long way toward helping your floor stay looking its best. Here are a few tips to help you decide what to do and when.

1. When moving heavy furniture or appliances, use plywood or hardboard panels, and walk the furniture or appliances across the panel; or slip a scrap of carpet or rug face down under each leg, and slide furniture carefully to avoid scratching or gouging.

2. Avoid rubber or latex backed rugs that will permanently yellow your vinyl floor.

3. Sweep, dust mop, or vacuum your floor daily to remove loose dirt before it can scratch your floors surface.

4. Wipe up wet spills as soon as possible before they dry. Remove dried spills with a damp mop or cloth.

5. Use floor protectors on legs of furniture to minimize scratches and indentations. Caution: Roller-type casters on furniture may damage resilient/sheet vinyl flooring and any warranty to their suitability rests with the caster/furniture manufacturer. Be certain that caster wheels or slides have a flat surface in contact with the floor. If they do not, we recommend that you change them, keep casters and floor protectors clean and in good working order to help prevent marring and excessive wear of the flooring surface.

· Stain Prevention/Removal:

Most substances that are likely to come in contact with any currently manufactured resilient and sheet vinyl floors will not leave a stain. Spilled liquids do not readily soak into the floors. However, special care should be taken to avoid spills and when they do occur, to remove them as soon as possible since certain substances such as mustard and iodine will stain resilient/sheet vinyl flooring.

RECOMMENDED CLEANING PROCEDURE

STAINING SUBSTANCE REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Writing Ink 1,2,3,4,7

Lipstick 1,2,3,4,7

Paint (oil base) 1,2,3,7

Varnish

Nail Polish 1,2,5,7

Tar, Asphalt 1,2,3,7

Rust 2,6,7,8

Burns 8

· The numbers in this column refer to the removal in this column refer to the removal instructions. Be sure to follow each step in sequence

Instructions

1. Take up freshly spilled materials with a clean white cloth, using a pickup motion toward the center of the spill to avoid spreading. If the spill has dried, remove excess with a plastic spatula or other tool that will not scratch the floor.

2. Wet a clean white cloth with detergent floor cleaner, and wipe over the stained area. For heavy residue, use the nylon pad (recommended for nonstick pans) dipped in the detergent. If a stain still shows, proceed to the next instruction indicated.

3. Wet a clean white cloth with lighter fluid or turpentine** and wipe over the stained area, turning the cloth frequently. Don’t walk on the treated area for 30 minutes.

4. Wet a clean white cloth with rubbing alcohol** and wipe over the stained area, turning the cloth frequently. Don’t walk on the treated area for 30 minutes. If a stain still shows, repeat the procedure, using liquid chlorine bleach.

5. Wet a clean white cloth with nail polish remover**, and wipe over the stained area, turning the cloth frequently. Don’t walk on the treated area for 30 minutes.

6. Apply a good heavy duty cleaner and a good wax remover to the area, and allow to stand for 5 to 10 minutes, then scrub vigorously with a stiff-bristle brush, wipe up and dry. If traces of rust still remain, they may be removed by rubbing with a nylon pad dipped in a solution of oxalic acid diluted in water (10 parts water to 1 part oxalic acid).

CAUTION: Oxalic acid is a toxic chemical (available in drugstores and hardware stores) and every precaution-including any written guidance furnished by the chemical manufacturer or supplier-should be followed to prevent its ingestion, inhalation, or contact with the skin in either the solid or solution form.

7. Rinse with water and let dry. Reapply floor polish if normally used.

8. Consult your builder

***CAUTION: These solvents are highly flammable, so exercise proper care in their use

WOOD FLOORS

The face of each board may contain the following characteristics”

· Streaks, spots and color variation

· A light variation in the finish of tinted colors

· Unfilled pinworm hole not over 1/16” in diameter

· Small checks or strokes less than ¼” long

· Small cracks between the slats not over 3/32” wide

Pre-finished samples displayed are representative of a style of wood. Color, shade, and finish of the wood installed may vary from the sample.

Care and Maintenance

1. The use of water and soap is not recommended on any wood product and will void any warranty. Never use ammonia based or oil soap products such as Murphy’s Oil Soap to clean or mop your floor. Use a professional wood floor cleaner that is recommended by the manufacturer.

2. Grit is one of the biggest hazards to your wood floor. Dust mop or sweep it daily. Tracked in dirt acts like sandpaper on your floor. Use a walk off mat or an entry rug at every outdoor entrance to catch the grit and shake it out regularly.

3. Use floor protectors on all tables, chairs, stools, etc. to protect against excess scratching and denting. Clean each individual floor protector every time you clean your wood floor. Floor protectors should be changed regularly every 3-6 months.

4. Stiletto or spiked heels, treaded sole shoes that hold pebbles and grit, and certain types of furniture will damage wood flooring.

5. Climatic changes, which cause wood floors to expand and contract, are not covered under warranty. Gaps in wood floor of 1/8” or under are within industry standards. Keep humidity levels constant by using a humidifier in the winter and air conditioner in the summer.

LAMINATE FLOORS

Grit is one of the biggest hazards to your floor. Tracked in dirt is like taking sandpaper to your laminate floor. Laminate is not as susceptible to dents and nicks as hardwood but it will scratch and can be damaged or abused as any other floor covering

Do not use soap-based detergents, oil soap, or one step clean and shine. Do not use wool, abrasive cleaners, or scouring powder. They will scratch your floor.

Wipe up floor with a damp cloth; do not saturate the floor with water. Use cleaning products recommended by the manufacturer (Ex. Pergo floor cleaner).

HUMIDITY LEVELS

How a House Works!!

IS YOUR HOUSE TOO DRY?

Last December, the aggravating symptoms of excessive dryness began to appear in our home. My wife complained of dry skin and needed to rub lotion on her face, hands and arms several times a day. Our noses and throats often felt parched and irritated, so that we had to sip water regularly. In addition, our wonderful old oak writing table, the one we had worked so hard to refinish, developed a crack that gradually spread across it’s top.

Other signs appeared later, like shocks from static electricity when we walked across the carpet and touched a lamp. The house felt drafty in the evening, so we had to wear sweaters or turn up the heat. Late in the winter, we developed chronic sore throats.

Taken alone, each item of a dry house seemed like a minor inconvenience, but together they made our house downright uncomfortable. Our problem is not unique. Dryness can occur anywhere the weather gets cold enough to heat your home. Unfortunately, infants, asthma sufferers and older people suffer more acutely.

In this section, we will explain how your house becomes dry, how it affects you and what you can do about it.

HOW A HOUSE DRIES OUT!

The first cool weeks of autumn signal the kickoff of the football season, relief from the hot, humid summer weather and the first signs of moisture condensation on windows. In most homes, you will spot these foggy windows in the morning after a cold night. Cold temperatures cool the glass, causing the moisture from the warm, humid air inside the house to form water drops on the glass. This condensation is a sign that the drying process has begun.

Throughout the humid summer, moisture collects inside our homes. The wood in furniture, trim, floors, and framing absorbs it. So do drywall, fabrics, plaster, concrete and brick. By the time cool weather returns, our homes have virtually swelled up with a hidden reservoir of water stored in the building materials and furnishings.

Cool weather reverses the process. Cool air holds less moisture than warm air, so in general, the humidity level drops in cold weather. Of course, that is when we close the windows and turn on the heat. But that doesn’t stop cold, drier outside air from entering doors and windows to completely replace the inside air in about one hour. The drier air, especially when heated, picks up moisture left from the summer months and carries the moisture outdoors when it escapes. Therefore, throughout the winter, your house dries out.

FINDING A HUMIDITY BALANCE

Condensation on windows is a sure sign of the change taking place. Usually it appears on windows during those first cold spells of fall. It might return periodically for a month or two as your house slowly dries, and again when the thermometer drops even further.

However, some homes dry out faster than others do. Ours, built in 1924 when building practices didn’t emphasize energy efficiency, is very leaky and dries out so fast that we rarely find condensation on our windows, even in freezing weather. Extra moisture sources like cooking, the damp basement, showers (without the exhaust fan running); the aquarium and frequently watered indoor plants don’t raise the humidity level enough to even fog a window. They can’t keep pace with the flow of air through our walls that carries the moisture away.

Of course, homes that were built more tightly suffer from the opposite problem – too much moisture. They might never dry out, so their owners have to mop condensation off their windowsills and combat mildew all winter. For them, a dry house would be a welcome relief!

CONTROLLING HUMIDITY LEVELS

Humidity is elusive – you cannot see it or monitor it without an expensive instrument called a “hydrometer”. Hydrometers are available from heating and cooling supply dealers for $50 and up. High indoor humidity and dry temperatures cause more condensation. When moisture condenses on your windows, you can roughly predict the indoor humidity level. Once the temperature drops below 10 degrees, you cannot keep your house in the comfort zone (40-60% humidity). If you try, condensation will continually build up on the windows, run down the glass and soak the sills and nearby walls, ruining wood finishes and rotting the wood.

So homeowners in very cold climates must either install more energy efficient windows, like triple pane types and those with low-E coatings, or accept drier conditions. In many homes, the humidity level is so low that windows almost never develop condensation. The humidity is so far below the comfort zone that we must find ways to increase the moisture levels.

ADDING INDOOR HUMIDITY

In cold weather (below 40 degrees) the most comfortable humidity level you can achieve is in the point where condensation occasionally appears on your windows but dries off a few hours later.

In dry homes, there are only two ways to achieve this comfort level: (1) keep more humidity inside and (2) add more moisture to the air to make up for the rapid loss through air leaks.

The easiest, most economical solution is to seal up air leaks to keep humid air inside the house. Apply caulk or foam around the foundation, electrical boxes, windows, doors and other places that utilities puncture the walls or ceilings of your house. Also, close off attic “bypasses” where walls, chimneys, plumbing vents and electrical fixtures leave big gaps where air can escape. Weather strip doors and windows too. These steps will not only keep moisture inside, they’ll lower your energy bills, both in the winter when you heat and in summer when you air condition.

A note of caution, most houses built before 1970 were so leaky that you rarely had to worry about making them too air tight. That is, so tight that the air gets stale or polluted inside. However, whenever you tighten your home, your gas or oil fueled appliances, which often rely on a steady outside air supply to burn well, might not exhaust properly. Their exhaust gasses might flow into your house rather than up the chimney. Therefore, after tightening your home, check to make sure your furnace, water heater and any other combustion devices are exhausting properly.

The second approach, if the first does not solve the dryness problem, is to add more humidity to the air. In the old days, folks used to leave pans of water on top of radiators or registers, a strategy that while helpful, could not raise the humidity level high enough. Today, people often boil pots of water on the stove, or leave their bathroom and kitchen vents off when they shower or cook. Each method adds moisture to indoor air.

If these methods are not good enough, you can install a humidifier. “Spot” humidifiers pump moisture into the air in one room, while central humidifiers add moisture to forced-air heating systems, which blow air through ductwork to every room in the house.

Both types are controlled by a humidistat, which, once set maintains that humidity level. Unfortunately, you cannot just set it and forget it. When the temperature drops, your windows get colder and potentially damaging condensation or frost can build up on them if your indoor humidity is too high. To prevent these problems, be prepared to adjust the humidistat according to outdoor temperature, setting it lower during cold spells.

Whatever type of humidifier you choose, you will have to service it at least annually. Most water contains dissolved minerals. Mist-type humidifiers spew these minerals out with the moisture and they settle on the ductwork, in your furnace or throughout your house as white dust. If you have hard water, avoid mist-type humidifiers. Bypass humidifiers, which circulate air through a damp grid, avoid this problem. However, minerals accumulate in their girds too, so you have to clean them and replace the evaporating grid periodically.

CERAMIC TILE

· Shade and or/color variation is inherent in all clay fired products. Samples displayed are representatives of a style of tile. Color, shade, and finish of tiles installed may vary from the sample. Shade variation may also occur in colored grouts. Shade and/or color variations are standard in the ceramic tile industry.

· Marble is a product of nature, not a man made product. Therefore, there will be a wide variation from shipment-to-shipment and from piece-to-piece as it relates to color, veining, and surface texture

· Shade, texture, and color will vary within each production run of a manufactured tile, and may also vary as a result of use, care, cleaning, and age. Therefore, on any replaced or repaired ceramic tile, Grand Design Interiors will not be responsible for any shade, finish, or color mismatch or discontinued colors or patterns.

· Any discoloration in grout caused by surface stains or oils from feet is not covered by this warranty. This includes rust and mineral deposits (hard water), and bath products (soap, shampoo, and hair conditioner).

· Crack in grouting of ceramic tile joints are commonly due to normal shrinkage conditions. Grand Design Interiors will repair grouting if necessary, one time only. The company will not be responsible for color variation or discontinued grout. Re-grouting of these cracks is maintenance responsibility of the homeowner during the life of the home. Grand Design Interiors will not be responsible for broken tiles due to shifting, moving, or settling of your new home. Tile products are decorative, not structural; therefore they cannot withstand movement of the structural foundation and walls they are adhered to.

Care and Maintenance

Ceramic tile generally needs a minimum amount of care. Routinely all you need to do is give the tile a quick wipe with a damp cloth or mop. However, heavy-duty cleaning is accomplished with any good household scouring powder and a sponge. (Important: When scouring with and powder, test a small inconspicuous area first to assure scouring action does not scratch or dull the glaze. You may also use a commercial tile cleaner or a good all purpose cleaner with a nylon-scrubbing pad. Rinse and wipe dry.

Please allow 72 hours for your new tile to dry before damp mopping.

Tile in the bath area is subject to more use than other areas. The simplest long-term maintenance is not to let the surface soil build up. Mildew thrives on body oil, shampoos, and hair conditioners in the warm humid darkness of poorly ventilated showers. Most times, a good mildew remover and cleaner or a vigorous scrubbing with a stiff brush and a good household cleaner will remove the discoloration. For stubborn stains, apply a paste of scouring powder with bleach, and leave it on for five or six hours. Then scrub, making sure to rinse the paste off thoroughly.

Occasionally, spills or inadvertent abuse will result in a stain that requires treatment other than the routine procedures already outlined. For other common stain problems you will find answers in the following chart.

STAIN REMOVAL FOR CERAMIC TILE AND GROUT

TYPE OF STAIN STAIN REMOVAL AGENT

Blood Hydrogen peroxide or household bleach

Coffee, tea, food Popular household cleanser in hot water

Fruit juices, & lipstick followed by peroxide or bleach. Rinse &dry

Fingernail Polish Dissolve with polish remover. If stain remains

Apply liquid bleach. Rinse & dry.

Grease & Fats Soda water, or Spic & Span & warm water

Inks and Colored Dyes Apply household bleach. Let stand until stain

Disappears, keeping surface wet continuously.

Rinse and dry.

Iodine Scrub with ammonia. Rinse and dry

Chewing Gum, wax, or tar Using a wood blade, scrape away bulk of

Material. Chilling material first with an ice cube

Will reduce smears and spreading. Remove

Remaining residue with non-flammable paint

Stripper, following precautions on the label.

Rinse and dry.

· Ceramic/Marble

Marble is an extremely durable material, generally considered permanent. While subject to normal wear, its natural beauty can easily be preserved indefinitely when properly maintained. The normal care and maintenance of a marble floor is similar to that of a fine wood floor-dust cloth and dry mop. When polished marble needs a through cleaning, wet it first with clear hot water then use a good soluble soap less cleaner, rinse thoroughly, and dry with a soft cloth.

Marble is a porous and therefore is subject to staining from some household foods, spilled liquids, greases, etc. Most stains can be removed and the polished finish can be restored to original luster. Consult a professional marble fabricator for removal of stains.

We recommend sealing all grout and natural stone.

Countertops

LAMINATE TOPS

The tops are guaranteed to be free of chips, gouges or delamination at the time of your orientation just prior to closing. For obvious reasons, we cannot honor any service requests for problems of this nature after closing.

It is also extremely important to not allow water to stand or penetrate any seams on your top as the seam can bulge and delaminate. If this occurs on a steady basis, it is not a warrantable issue.

Laminate can resist temperatures up to 275° F, so do not place hot utensils from the range on the surface. This could burn or discolor the material and melt the adhesive.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Protect your countertops. Do not cut foods directly on them with a sharp knife, for this will leave cut marks on the surface. For cleaning use a vinegar-water based solution. Do not use abrasive cleaners. They will damage the high gloss surface. It is important to keep the top bowl waxed. The company recommends GEL-GLOSS for cleaning and polishing.

CULTURED MARBLE

****THE COMPANY DOES NOT WARRANTY AGAINST COLOR VARIATION OR THE AMOUNT OF COLOR IN CULTERED MARBLE TOPS!

Be sure to use non-abrasive cleaners on marble to avoid minor scratched and swirl marks.

To maintain the luster on gloss countertops periodic applications of Gel Gloss may be applied. This may be purchased at your local hardware store.

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